Skincare Products Glossary of Terms

Skincare Products Glossary

What exactly is in the skincare products that you are putting on your skin and your face? Active ingredients, found in skincare treatment products, explained:

Carnosine

Carnosine is an antioxidant, said to inhibit free radicals formed by cigarette smoke. There are an estimated 100 billion free radicals in every drag on a cigarette.

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is an anti-inflammatory agent, derived from chamomile.

Ceramides

Ceramides are found naturally in sebum, these lipids form a water—tight bond between the cells of the stratum corneum. Creams containing ceramides claim to repair breaches in the skin’s barrier mechanism and to encourage smoother cell arrangement in the epidermis. Ceramides can also be converted into hollow liposomes to be filled with other skin—care ingredients.

Chitin

Extracted from crab and mollusc shells, chitin retains moisture and bonds with the skin’s keratin protein to form a flexible, protective film. It is also an ingredient of many hair-strengthening products.

Collagen

In the dermis, collagen gives skin its plumpness and strength. In creams, this protein, usually of bovine origin, was once thought to reinforce ageing skin’s dwindling collagen supplies. It is now conceded that collagen molecules are too fat to penetrate the skin deeply. They make good surface emollients, however.

Deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA)

Housed in the cell nucleus, DNA carries genetic information and controls cell mechanisms. DNA in cosmetics comes from plant, cow and sheep cells or fish roe. It cannot replace human DNA, but it can moisturize the skin.

Elastin

Elastin is a  spiral-shaped molecule responsible for skin elasticity, cosmetic elastin is of bovine origin. Used in “firming” creams to improve the suppleness of the epidermis.

Essential fatty acids (EFAs)

Linolenic and gamma-linolenic acids are found in vegetable oils, such as borage, evening primrose, grape pips, musk rose and corn. EFAs are essential to the body, which cannot make them, even though they are an integral component of cell membranes. In skincare formulas, EFAs strengthen the barrier function of the stratum corneum by reinforcing the lipids there.

Gatuline R

Gatuline R is extracted from baby beech tree shoots, gatuline R is said to boost the skin’s oxygen consumption

Gingko biloba

Gingko biloba is derived from a tree that has survived since the Jurassic period, it’s easy to understand gingkos link with anti-aging. An antioxidant, gingko is said to have energizing properties.

Glycerol

Glycerol is derived from oils and fats, glycerol is a moisture-attracting emollient that helps prevent surface dehydration.

Gluconic acid

Gluconic acid is a gentle exfoliant, gluconic acid is said to be less irritating to the skin than AHAs and is used in products formulated for sensitive skins.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is found in the dermis, hyaluronic acid binds moisture in tissues and is vital to the skin’s Natural Moisture Factor (NMF). Biochemists synthesize it from bacteria for cosmetic use. Because of its high molecular weight, it cannot penetrate the skin deeply, but is an excellent smoothing, plumping surface emollient.

Milk peptides

Milk peptides help boost collagen and elastin support.

Nayad

Nayad is the trade name for beta-glucan, derived from the cell walls of yeast, Nayad is said to stimulate the skin’s immune cells, promoting repair and healing.

Panthenol

Panthenol is also called pro-vitamin B5, panthenol helps soothe and strengthen the skin.

Petrolatum

Petrolatum is an occlusive agent, petrolatum holds moisture in the skin’s upper layers.

Phospholipids

Phospholipids are the components of the cell membrane that keep it resistant and watertight. Ageing cells with fewer phospholipids dehydrate faster than young cells. In creams, phospholipids make good moisturizers.

Salycilic acid

Salycilic acid is derived from witch hazel, salycilic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with an exfoliating effect. Often used in acne products and combined with AHAs in anti-ageing creams.

Silicones

Silicones boost the “slip factor” of moisturizers, helping them to glide on evenly. Cyclomethicone is a popular ingredient in firming gels, providing them with a satin, rather than greasy glide-on. Soft coral. This is a new-generation antioxidant.

Squalene

Squalene is derived from shark liver oil, squalene retains moisture in the skin’s upper layers and has a temporary tightening effect. Titanium dioxide. Also referred to as titanium micro-pigments, these inorganic particles deflect UV light and infra-red heat and form efficient, non-irritating alternatives to chemical sunscreens. In foundations, they give a luminous finish. Other light-reflective mineral pigments, such as zirconium, ferric oxide and zinc oxide are also used in high-protection sun products.

Urea

Urea contains a powerful amino acid that attracts and holds moisture in the skin’s upper layers.